Life stripped bare... on the road in South America
It's Eat Pray Love... with balls! A journey through South America... one man's search for redemption, adventure, and a few beers.
I had heard great things about this natural phenomena before heading south… and the glacier itself did not disappoint! I chose not to do the ice walk, perhaps a mistake but I have the feeling I’ll be down this way again in the future. Though not to spend any time in the nearby town of… [more]
El Chalten, simply the most amazing hiking & camping experience in Argentina so far! Blue skies and great weather certainly helped, but it is my idea of what a “mountain village” should be. You can walk everywhere in the two street town, and choose from 7 or 8 one day or multi-day treks that start… [more]
I’ve read about Patagonia in countless books, essays, articles over the years… wide expanses, low lying scrublands, aridness… But as I take my first look across the Patagonian landscape from a few thousand feet as the plane makes its long, slow descent into El Calafate, one word comes to mind: brown. Patagonia seems very, very… [more]
Now don’t get me wrong, I’ve very much enjoyed my past 9 months living in Buenos Aires, have made some great friends, had some amazing times, and generally done everything that could be done to enjoy this city. But when it boils down to it, even with all it’s attractions, Buenos Aires is still a… [more]
No, he’s not some Spanish speaking super hero, rather the most common street vendor food in Argentina. And it’s a bloody hotdog! Yep, that’s right, the food that every man, women, child and dog seems to consume with frightening regularity in Argentina is the good ol’ hotdog! How’s that for exotic South American cuisine? And… [more]
Had a great long weekend in Mar Del Plata a couple of weeks ago, just a short 4 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires. Well, that’s not including Friday evening peak hour which turned out outward leg into a 6 hour trip. But no matter, with sun and beach at the other end it was… [more]
The guy standing next to be on the collectivo (bus) is wearing a suit, jacket on, with a buttoned up collared shirt. The air hangs hot & humid, wrapping itself around my body, my clothing clinging to the thin layer of sweat covering me. The guy next to me must be the only guy on the… [more]
Well as it turns out, living in Buenos Aires can often by very similar to living back home in Sydney… too much work, not enough social life… the realities of life as a non-millionaire I guess! And when most of that “work” is actually research & development and not income producing, that just hurts even… [more]
I’m really not sure if it’s the city or me. Three days in Cordoba and I’m out of here, not quite the week I had planned and paid rent in advance for. The city itself is pleasant enough though boasting few apparent attractions. The main square (which I’m sitting in now) is an open, paved… [more]
Yep, that’s right, Oktoberfest in Argentina, not Germany. Villa General Belgrano to be exact, a couple of ours outside Cordoba, Argentina’s second largest city, and home to a large community of German expats and ancestors. Not quite the size nor history of its Munich equivalent, but a great weekend it was, in spite of the… [more]
Under leaders of certain countries the questioning of authority is not only discouraged, but can lead to punishment, severe in some instances. Our supposedly liberal, “western” point of view publicly voices its support for the freedom of speech, encouraging the community to question all aspects of the government and laws they may live under. Though… [more]
There’s a few things that are very common in Buenos Aires: beautiful women, good steak, Malbec wine, dog poo on the streets (more on that at a later date), and friends who visit a psychologist. Yes, more common than the US (where I thought it was mandatory if you lived in LA or NYC), it seems that almost every Argentinian I know, plus a few non-Argentinians who have been living here for a while, have a psychologist that they see on a regular basis.
Talk about a change of pace from Buenos Aires! The biggest engine I can hear is a small two-stroke or similar. No, wait, there’s the gentle “tuk tuk tuk” of a small outboard. The loudest noise of all are the birds. Yes, the birds! Try listening for those in Buenos Aires! The enforced once-every-90-days visa… [more]
Probably not surprising that the question I’m being asked most by my (male) friends back home is: So how are the Argentinian women? The simple answer would be: Stunning. The more complex answer would be: Stunning, but… Yes, they are gorgeous. I spend any day walking around town just agog at the talent walking by.… [more]
So, to motorcycle through South America or not, that is the question? Pros: · Bloody exciting! · Once in a lifetime · Some, but not many, will ever do it in their lifetime · Did I say “bloody exciting”? Cons: · A little cliche perhaps? · Dangerous (or is that a pro?) · Lots of… [more]
Yes it’s the El Classico, the biggest rivalry in Argentinean club football: River v Boca, the rich v the poor! And what a spectacle it was! Noise, colour, music… and Boca’s hilarious dancing mascot!
Amazing bookstore in Buenos Aires, a converted theatre where they have kept much of the original décor. Apart from the amazing interior, I did head there on various online recommendations that the cafe was a good place to work from, with free wifi and a nice, quiet environment. Would make a nice change from working… [more]
Words would never adequately describe the majesty of the might Iguazu Falls, straddling the border of Argentina and Brazil. A long, sleepless overnight bus journey was well worth the effort once I got to see this amazing wonder of the world up close.
The worst time for dwelling on things is when I’m trying to get to sleep at night. I try to relax, to relax the mind and body as best I can and hopefully drift off to sleep. Fat chance of that most nights. Instead my mind seems to – excuse the bad pun – have… [more]
Lying back staring at the blood splattered ceiling I’m wondering what injury had been treated in this room that splatted blood seven feet high. My minds dwelling on all manner of injury types when I’m suddenly jolted back into the present by the feeling of needle and twine going through my skin… After finding an… [more]
Schoolboy error tonight. Standing in a hostel bar, surrounded by revellers from all nations, dancing to some tasty live tunes from a Brazilian band, and I decide to look up my ex’s Facebook page on my iPhone. And her new profile photo shows her looking as lovely as ever… arm in arm with her new… [more]
Had forgotten it’s Easter Friday, went out for a quick late evening dinner (as it’s done in B.A.) and heard the sounds of hymns drifting through the evening. Followed the music and found a main thoroughfare closed to traffic, filled with people baring candles. I’m not much for religion myself, but have to admit that… [more]
Met some good people last night. Early hours of the morning, heading home after a midnight dinner of prime Argentinian steak and Malbec wine (as the locals do), decided to pop into a bar near my hostel for a night cap. Turned out to be an excellent decision. Sitting at the bar (as you do… [more]
Was having a chat to a mate over a beer or ten a month or so before I was leaving, and while I haven’t been much for sharing some of the issues I’ve been going through over the past year or so since my break up I did mention that I was viewing this trip… [more]
Cheeseburger for breakfast. Only in America can you walk for half an hour through the main part of town and the healthiest breakfast option you can find is a cheeseburger. Healthy? Well, that’s the lettuce and tomato. Oh, and don’t forget the “pickle spear”. Yep, a long slice of pickle to accompany your burger. This… [more]
It’s all about reading the signals. Playing with her hair. Legs crossed towards you. All signs of someone who’s interested in you. Or is it? Perhaps she’s just naturally friendly, naturally open and wanting to share some good conversation? These are the challenges we guys face every time we meet a woman that takes our… [more]
“Have you forgiven yourself?” I didn’t have to think too hard to answer that one. “No, I haven’t.” She looked at me. “You know that you need to?” “Yes, yes I do.” A dingy L.A. karaoke bar at the start of my year long trip to South America was the last place I had been… [more]
So what do you do when you’ve lost the woman of your dreams and no matter what you try you can’t seem to get over her? What else? You go travelling! Well, maybe “travelling” doesn’t quite tell the whole story. I quit my job, sold everything I own, and headed to a place that I’d… [more]
I know I’m running away. “You’re running away”, a friend of mine emailed. I know. “But I guess you need to do what makes you happy” he also added. And that’s the crux of the matter. I’ve spent the last 16 months failing to move on and constantly depressed. Tried going out with friends. Tried… [more]
The following is the email I sent to my friends on departing for South America. Well guys, I’ve been telling you all a little white lie recently, and I hope you might forgive me for it one day… by the time you read this I will actually already be winging my way overseas on this… [more]